The history
Rajasthan's cooks learned to build flavour without water or fresh vegetables — hence dried lentils, ghee and buttermilk. Gujarat's Jain and Vaishnav traditions produced one of the world's most inventive vegetarian cuisines. Goa carries four centuries of Portuguese influence in its vinegar and chilli.
Enormous range: Gujarat's gently sweet dhokla and undhiyu, Maharashtra's fierce goda-masala curries and coastal kokum, Rajasthan's ghee-heavy dal baati, Goa's vinegar-sharp vindaloo and coconut xacuti.
