Where it comes from
Persian in origin and Kashmiri by adoption. The red comes from ratan jot and Kashmiri chilli rather than heat, and the Kashmiri Pandit version uses no onion or garlic at all — asafoetida stands in.
Method
- 1
Smoke the mustard oil
05:00Heat the oil until it stops smelling raw, then drop the heat and add cardamom, cloves and asafoetida.
- 2
Brown the lamb
15:00Sear the pieces in batches so they colour rather than steam.
- 3
Add yogurt off the boil
08:00Take the pot off the heat, stir in whisked yogurt slowly so it never splits, then return it.
- 4
Spice and slow-cook
70:00Add chilli, fennel and dry ginger with a cup of water and simmer covered until the meat gives.
- 5
Reduce
10:00Uncover and cook until a red oil film rises to the surface — the traditional sign it is done.
Cook's notes
- Kashmiri chilli is for colour, not heat; do not swap in hot chilli powder.
- Bone-in lamb makes the gravy; boneless makes a stew.
