Where it comes from
Rasam predates chilli in India — its heat originally came from black pepper alone, which is why the oldest versions are called milagu rasam. It is served both as a course over rice and as a remedy for a cold.
Method
- 1
Pound the rasam masala
04:00Crush peppercorns, cumin and garlic coarsely in a mortar — ground powder loses the perfume.
- 2
Simmer tamarind and tomato
08:00Boil the strained tamarind water with crushed tomato, turmeric and salt until the raw edge goes.
- 3
Add the dal and masala
05:00Stir in thinned cooked dal and the pounded masala. Heat only until a frothy line appears at the rim.
- 4
Never boil it
Pull it off the heat before it rolls — a boiled rasam turns flat and cloudy.
- 5
Temper and finish
02:00Splutter mustard, curry leaves and asafoetida in ghee, pour over, and cover with coriander.
Cook's notes
- Rasam should be drinkable — thin it further than feels right.
- Leftover rasam is best reheated gently, never re-boiled.
